into the Bull & Finch. Apparently those
efforts paid off.”
And, according to Kershaw, size does
matter. In an arena-sized venue, it’s hard
to create a place to which people feel
connected. In this case, small is beautiful
and proves to be the shared characteristic
of our most cherished watering holes.
While much is said, written and celebrated about large-format bars, restaurants
and clubs, many of the most well-run
and longstanding establishments occupy
considerably less space but own a large
portion of our souls.
Case in point is Marcus’ Martini
Heaven in Seattle. The subterranean
haunt is located under Pioneer Square
in what was once the lobby of a 19th
century hotel at the city’s original street
level. The bar has the timeworn look
of a speakeasy with exposed brick and
stone walls, wood beam ceilings, demur
lighting and the occasional waft of dank,
stagnant air. While some may perceive
the place as sketchy, the steady stream
of people pouring through Heaven’s door
come for the ambience and its impressive roster of cocktails.
Indeed, what’s one man’s dive is
another’s home away from home. Give
Americans a night off and we’re just as
likely to traipse to the place down the
block as we are to stay on the couch.
“My favorite bar to while away a
night is Tony’s in the warehouse district
downtown in Los Angeles,” says Aidan
Demarest, director of spirits and beverages at glamorous drinks haven The Edison.
“Although it was recently renovated,
Tony’s hasn’t lost the hole-in-the-wall
feel. In fact, it has the requisite five dive
bar components: booze, beer, juke box,
pool table and killer bartenders.”
Even after a facelift, Tony’s still looks
every bit of its 60 years. The dark wood
interior, antique bar and low lighting
create a post-war atmosphere. Although
low-key and unpretentious, don’t expect
watered-down drinks served in dirty,
chipped glasses. General manager Skyler
Reeves — who left a cushy gig in West
Hollywood to manage Tony’s — has
stocked the backbar with a serious
complement of whiskeys and devised
a menu full of all-star cocktails aimed at
“Inexpensive and
unassuming, [Cherry Tavern
is] a great place to escape.
Everybody should have
somewhere like this to
escape to.”
Jonathan Pogash, Director of Cocktail
Development, Hospitality Holdings
attracting urban-explorer types.
Demarest admits the place may strike
some as unsavory. “I left work one night,
hopped in a cab and headed for Tony’s.
When I got there, the cabbie looked at
me dressed in a suit and refused to drop
me off. He said he wouldn’t be responsible and that there had to be somewhere
safer for me to have a ‘good time.’ So he
turned around and drove me back. Ironically, the next cabbie knew Tony’s and
raved about it the entire 20-minute ride.”
Cozy bars are the heart of the industry, including
places like (opposite page) Brandy Library in New
York City, (above, from left) Marcus’ Martini Heaven
in Seattle and Ranch 616 in Austin.
Tiny Landmarks
At 460 square feet, The Matchbox is
undoubtedly Chicago’s most intimate bar.
The 75-year-old institution is indeed tiny
— three feet wide at one point — and
every night it’s a full house. “The place
should be called ‘the bar where you
can’t fall over,’ the room is so narrow,”
observes drinks writer and beverage expert Jack Robertiello. “But they’ve been
expertly preparing cocktails for years,
using fresh ingredients and high quality products. Great people, great scene,
great drinks.”
Located on the corner of Ogden and
Milwaukee avenues, the Matchbox draws
an eclectic crowd, all of whom apparently appreciate well-made drinks, the
large assortment of brews and standing
shoulder to shoulder with fellow revelers.
It’s an offbeat yet thoroughly engaging
experience.
The same can be said for hoisting a
few at the Cherry Tavern in New York’s
East Village. It’s a relaxed neighborhood
joint with dated furniture, subdued lighting, loud rock and tons of atmosphere.
“I love hanging out here with friends
and drinking some good beer,” confides
Jonathan Pogash, director of cocktail
development for New York’s Hospitality
Holdings, which operates The Campbell
Apartment and The World Bar, among
other posh venues in Manhattan. “
Inexpensive and unassuming, it’s a great
place to escape. Everybody should have
somewhere like this to escape to once
in a while.”
Inexpensive and unassuming speaks
volumes about the draw of small neighborhood bars. Most of those interviewed
for this piece expressed a visceral connection with their favorite haunts, yet
couldn’t quite put their finger on exactly
why such a connection exists.
And then there’s Tito Beveridge, of
Tito’s Handmade Vodka fame, who
knows exactly what he appreciates most
about Austin’s Ranch 616. “The place is
an authentic South Texas Ice House with
cool artwork of 1920s cowgirls, a great
waitstaff and food to die for. But what
makes it unique and why I keep going
back are the owners — Kevin, Antonio
and Matt. They give the place character
and make every guest feel like they’re
family coming back home.”
The reputation of many a small landmark has been forged by its owner’s
